A. SOIL PREPARATION Empty the soil bag to the very environmentally friendly coconut pot. Don’t forget to leave about a quarter of an inch or so of empty space in between the surface of the soil and rim of the pot to ensure proper growth. Press the mixture slightly to eliminate stubborn air pockets. Dampen the mixture thoroughly with water so it’s ready to provide the right environment for seeds to germinate.
B. SOW. Drop at least 2-3 seeds into the pot making sure they have ample space in between. Cover them lightly with some soil at least 1-2mm deep. Water the pot very lightly to ensure good seed–to-mix contact.
C. SEAL & NURTURE. Leaving the pot completely open will allow too much heat as well as allowing moisture to escape, this may cause fewer germination or no germination at all. To prevent this, look for a clear plastic kitchen wrap or bag and spray it with some water. Be sure that the moist side of the plastic will sit above the soil. Go ahead and secure the plastic (moist side inside) with a rubber band or thread, acting as the pot’s lid. This will help it to retain the moisture that the seeds need to germinate properly. Twice daily, remove the wrap and sprinkle the pot with some water especially when it’s hot.
A. TIME TO UNVEIL THEM. Remove the plastic wrap when the sprouts start to emerge (around 5-8 days after step 1). When you see the first green tendrils (tiny stems) push up through the soil, you can then remove the wrap. Germination is over, now the second stage starts. It’s called vegetative stage. In this stage leaves will form and it will gradually grow. You need to keep the soil moist to aid the growing plant. You may water it very lightly at least two times daily preferably in the morning and late afternoon to maintain its moisture.
B. THINNING. Thin seedlings after they get their second sets of leaves. Pull out the weakest seedlings (Note: perform thinning after the emergence of the true leaves- 4th leaf), for the strongest, healthiest plants you'll want just one seedling per pot. Discard plucked out seedlings or you can try to transplant them into different pots, but you risk damaging the roots of the plant, which can adversely affect its rate of survival.
A. HYDRATION & SUN EXPOSURE. Because the potting mix in a pot dries quickly; you will need to water oh so frequently. Keep the soil damp but not soaked. When the plants have begun to sprout, they will need to be watered regularly but the soil should be allowed to dry out between watering. Do not water your Marigolds from overhead. Water at the base of the plant.
Marigolds grown in cool, damp conditions are likely to develop problems with mold, mildew and fungus. These problems can be avoided BY KEEPING YOUR MARIGOLDS IN FULL SUN.
B. FERTILIZATION. That frequent watering tends to wash out nutrients from the pot’s soil, as well as some of it was already acquired by the plant so you will need to replenish it with fertilizer. Start to fertilize 14-21 days after emergence of sprout and every 15 days. Sprinkle at least 5-10 pcs of DURABLOOM Pellets to the soil for its nutrients requirements. You can crush the pellet and sprinkle indirectly around the marigold for faster absorption. (Note: not a single bit of nutrient will ever reach the plant system if not carried out by water) it is a must that you water the pot after fertilizer application or apply it before you do your watering. You can also enhance the marigold development by giving it direct nutrients, dilute ½ teaspoon of DURABLOOM Foliar in 2 Litres of water and spray it to the leaves of the plant. This will boost root development and ensure that the plant will utilize all nutrients available in the potting media. You can do this once a week.
A. DEADHEADING AND PEST MANAGEMENT. “Deadheading” is a cultivating process in which you snip off dead blossoms from flowering plants. While not strictly necessary, deadheading your marigolds will help prompt the plant to produce new flowers.
Gardeners have long known that marigolds make important companion plants all over the garden. Not only does the scent of the marigold repel animals and insects, but the underground workings of the marigold will repel nematodes worms and other pests.
B. SEEDS HARVESTING. To harvest your marigold seeds, leave the flowers on their stems to dry. Wait for the flowers to wilt and die and after about a week the petals and shell will turn dry and brittle, and the flower will take on a brownish color. When this happens simply grasp the dried up flower and pull it out of the pod. The seeds will come through the opening in a tight cluster attached to the withered flower. Clasp that cluster of seeds and pull it from the dried flower to separate them. Let the seeds dry for a few days on an open plate, or newspaper before storing them.